Religion, science, and scientism -- Cartography, the ideal of science, and the place of religion -- First interlude : the dynamics of comparison and classification -- Christocentric travel writing : dynamics of comparison and classification -- Second interlude : the five modes of comparison -- Humanist travel writing : ascent of empiricism and the on the spot -- Third interlude : classification in the natural sciences -- Categories to count on : religion and caste in the census -- Raja, a ghost, and a tribe : studies in ethnology, folklore, and religion -- Popularizing Chainpur's past: archaeology in place and in museums -- Education : teaching scientism -- Chainpur today.