Acknowledgments -- Los Encuentros -- Prologue -- Part One. Guatemala City -- Arrival -- The Capital for Tourists -- Walking around Town -- Rainy Season in the Slums -- The City Dump -- Along the Railroad Tracks -- A GAM Rally -- Maquilas -- El Churrasco -- Ladino Attitudes -- Soccer in Guatemala -- Street Children -- Buying a Scooter -- Bureaucracy Revisited -- The Post Office -- "Fijase" -- Religion -- Restaurants -- USAID -- The Gringo Presence -- Part Two. Roads and Texts -- Antigua -- Lake Atitldn -- Chichicastenango -- Utatldn -- The Ixil Triangle -- The Biotopo del Quetzal -- The Road to El Estor -- The Oriente -- The Last Road -- Bibliography -- Index.