Table of Contents -- Introduction -- 1. Pre-Islamic Arabia and the Early Umma -- Arab Clothing Before the Rise of Islam -- The Time of the Prophet and Early Islam -- Early Islamic Laws and Customs Regarding Clothing -- 2. The Evolution of the Islamic Vestimentary System under the Great Caliphates -- The Trend toward Luxury under the Umayyads -- Early Attempts at Differentiating Muslim and Non-Muslim Dress -- The Beginnings of the Institutions of Khil'a and Tirāz -- The Emergence and Consolidation of an Islamic Fashion under the 'Abbasids -- Dress Protocol at the 'Abbasid Court -- The Economics of Clothing -- The Clothing of Commoners and Various Social Groups -- Imposition of Dress Regulations for Non-Muslims -- The Apogee of Medieval Haute Couture under the Fatimids -- The Geniza: A Unique Source for Islamic Attire in the Fatimid Period -- 3. The Arab East under the Turkish Dynasties of the Later Middle Ages and Early Modern Times: Saljuqs, Ayyubids, Mamluks, and Ottomans -- The Clothing of the Military Élite -- The Clothing of Other Strata of Society -- Female Attire -- General Trends in Non-Muslim Dress -- The Ottoman Period (To Early Modern Times) -- 4. The Muslim West: North Africa and Medieval Spain -- Pre-Islamic Foundations of Maghrebi Costume -- Maghrebi Costume During the Early and High Middle Ages -- Medieval Andalusian Attire -- The Berber Empires and Their Successor States -- From the End of the Middle Ages to Modern Times -- 5. The Laws of Differentiation and the Clothing of Non-Muslims -- The Origin and Evolution of the Pact of 'Umar and Ghiyār in the Early Islamic Centuries -- The Trend Toward Stricter Enforcement and Regularization -- The Apogee of Ghiyār Regulations and Enforcement Under The Mamluks -- Regional Variation in Late Medieval North Africa.

Ghiyār in Early Modern Times: The Lingering Authority of Custom and the Impact of Increasing European Penetration -- 6. The Opulent World of Tirāz and Precious Textiles -- The Term Tirāz -- The Origins of the Tirāz Institution -- The Early Development of the Tirāz Institution under the Umayyads -- Full Scale Development of the Tirāz Institution under the 'Abbasids -- The Tirāz Institution under the Fatimids -- Tirāz and Robes of Honor under Ayyubids and Mamluks -- 7. Veiling in the Islamic Vestimentary System -- Veiling in Early Islam -- Veiling Under the Great Caliphates and the Successor Military Dynasties -- Evidence for How Medieval Veils Actually Looked -- Modern Times -- Modernization, the Early Arab Women's Movement, and Unveiling -- The Modern Resurgence of Veiling: Hijāb Old and New -- 8. Modern Times -- 9. The Study of Arab Clothing: A Bibliographical Epilogue -- The Early Pioneer Studies -- The Jāhili Period and Early Islam -- The Great Caliphates -- The Turkish Military Dynasties -- Late Medieval Islamic Spain and North Africa -- The Ottoman Period in the Arab World -- Twentieth-Century Ethnographic Studies -- The Jews of the Arabic World -- Other Religious and Ethnic Minorities of the Arab World -- Jewelry -- Abbreviations of Journals and Encyclopedias -- Archival and Manuscripts Sources -- Bibliography -- Index -- A -- B -- C -- D -- E -- F -- G -- H -- I -- J -- K -- L -- M -- N -- O -- P -- Q -- R -- S -- T -- U -- V -- W -- Y -- Z -- Addenda & Corrigenda I -- Addendum to Bibliography -- Addenda & Corrigenda II -- Plates -- Figures.