Cover -- Half-title -- Title -- Copyright -- Contents -- Preface -- Acknowledgments -- PART ONE INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL PROCESSES -- CHAPTER ONE Overview -- 1.1 INTRODUCTION -- 1.2 SOME TERMINOLOGY OF THE COASTS -- 1.2.1 DESCRIPTIVE TERMS -- 1.2.2 TRANSPORT PROCESSES -- 1.3 EXAMPLES OF COASTAL ENGINEERING PROJECTS -- 1.3.1 BEACH NOURISHMENT -- 1.3.2 EFFECTS OF NAVIGATIONAL ENTRANCES - A GENERIC PROBLEM -- 1.3.3 PONCE de LEON INLET, FLORIDA - A WEIR JETTY SYSTEM -- 1.3.4 PORT ORFORD, OREGON -- 1.3.5 EFFECTS OF SHALLOW-WATER PROFILE DEEPENING -- 1.3.6 STORM IMPACT ZONES -- 1.3.7 OFFSHORE BREAKWATERS -- 1.3.8 EFFECTS OF GROINS - IMPERIAL BEACH, CALIFORNIA -- 1.3.9 RECREATIONAL BEACHES -- 1.3.10 COASTAL ARMORING -- REFERENCES -- EXERCISES -- APPENDIX: USEFUL UNITS -- CHAPTER TWO Sediment Characteristics -- 2.1 INTRODUCTION -- 2.2 SAND COMPOSITION -- 2.3 GRAIN SIZES -- 2.3.1 STATISTICS OF THE SAND SIZES -- 2.3.2 SPATIAL AND TEMPORAL VARIATIONS IN SAND SIZE -- 2.4 SHAPE -- 2.5 POROSITY -- 2.6 FALL VELOCITY -- REFERENCES -- CHAPTER THREE Long-Term Processes -- 3.1 INTRODUCTION -- 3.2 RELATIVE SEA LEVEL CHANGE -- 3.2.1 MEASUREMENT OF SEA LEVEL RISE -- 3.2.2 FUTURE SEA LEVEL TRENDS -- 3.3 EQUILIBRIUM BEACH PROFILE -- 3.3.1 DIMENSIONLESS PARAMETERS -- 3.3.2 EXPECTED BEACH PROFILE RESPONSES -- 3.4 CLASSIFICATION OF SHORELINES -- 3.4.1 INTRODUCTION -- 3.4.2 SHORELINE CLASSIFICATION SCHEMES -- 3.4.3 SHORELINES OF SUBMERGENCE -- 3.4.3.1 Beach Profile -- 3.4.3.2 Shore Planform -- Spits -- Tombolos -- Barrier Islands -- Inlets -- Cuspate Features -- 3.4.3.3 Summary -- 3.4.4 SHORELINES OF EMERGENCE -- 3.4.4.1 Barrier Island Development -- de Beaumont Theory (1845) -- Gilbert Theory (1885) -- Summary of Barrier Island Models -- 3.4.5 OTHER COASTAL TYPES -- 3.4.5.1 Deltaic Shorelines -- 3.4.5.2 Biogenous Coastlines -- 3.4.6 SUMMARY -- REFERENCES -- EXERCISES.

PART TWO HYDRODYNAMICS OF THE COASTAL ZONE -- CHAPTER FOUR Tides and Storm Surges -- 4.1 INTRODUCTION -- 4.2 ASTRONOMICAL TIDES -- 4.3 STORM SURGES -- 4.3.1 STORM SURGE COMPONENTS -- 4.3.2 PREDICTION OF THE STORM SURGE -- REFERENCES -- EXERCISES -- CHAPTER FIVE Waves and Wave-Induced Hydrodynamics -- 5.1 INTRODUCTION -- 5.2 WATER WAVE MECHANICS -- 5.2.1 OTHER WAVE THEORIES -- 5.2.2 WAVE REFRACTION AND SHOALING -- 5.2.3 WAVE PROPAGATION MODELS -- 5.2.4 WAVE BREAKING -- 5.2.5 MEAN WAVE QUANTITIES -- 5.2.6 WAVE SETUP -- 5.3 CROSS-SHORE AND LONGSHORE CURRENTS -- 5.4 LOW-FREQUENCY MOTIONS AT THE SHORELINE -- 5.4.1 SURF BEAT -- 5.4.2 EDGE WAVES -- 5.4.3 SHEAR WAVES -- 5.5 NEARSHORE CIRCULATION AND RIP CURRENTS -- 5.5.1 NUMERICAL MODELING OF NEARSHORE CIRCULATION -- 5.6 SWASH ZONE DYNAMICS -- 5.6.1 OBLIQUELY INCIDENT WAVES AND NO FRICTION -- 5.6.2 NONDIMENSIONAL EQUATIONS -- 5.6.3 OBLIQUELY INCIDENT WAVES WITH LINEAR FRICTION -- 5.6.4 NORMALLY INCIDENT WAVES WITH NONLINEAR FRICTION -- 5.6.5 FIELD AND THEORETICAL STUDIES -- REFERENCES -- EXERCISES -- PART THREE COASTAL RESPONSE -- CHAPTER SIX Field Measurement Techniques and Analysis -- 6.1 INTRODUCTION -- 6.2 BEACH PROFILE MEASUREMENTS -- 6.2.1 WADING AND BOAT SURVEYS -- 6.2.2 OTHER PROFILING METHODS -- 6.2.2.1 Instrument Measurements -- 6.2.2.2 Diver-Measured Elevations -- 6.3 ANALYSIS OF BEACH PROFILE DATA -- 6.3.1 DETERMINING CHANGES IN SAND VOLUME -- 6.3.2 EMPIRICAL ORTHOGONAL EIGENFUNCTION (EOF) METHOD -- 6.3.2.1 Theoretical Basis of the EOF -- 6.3.2.2 Applications of the EOF Method -- 6.3.3 COMPLEX PRINCIPAL COMPONENT ANALYSIS -- 6.3.4 SAND BUDGET -- 6.3.5 EVEN-ODD ANALYSIS OF COASTAL SHORELINE CHANGES -- 6.4 HISTORICAL SHORELINE CHANGES -- 6.4.1 CHARTS -- 6.4.2 AERIAL PHOTOGRAPHS -- 6.4.3 SHORELINE CHANGE QUANTIFICATION -- 6.5 MAJOR FIELD CAMPAIGNS -- 6.6 INNOVATIVE FIELD TECHNIQUES.

6.6.1 VIDEO METHODS FOR SANDBARS -- 6.6.2 SEDIMENTATION -- 6.6.2.1 Areas of Expected High Siltation -- 6.6.2.2 Longshore Sediment Transport -- 6.6.2.3 Evaluation of Anticipated Sedimentation in a Deep Navigational Channel -- REFERENCES -- EXERCISES -- CHAPTER SEVEN Equilibrium Beach Profiles -- 7.1 INTRODUCTION -- 7.2 METHODS OF DERIVING EQUILIBRIUM BEACH PROFILES -- 7.3 CONSTRUCTIVE AND DESTRUCTIVE FORCES ACTING ON BEACH PROFILES -- 7.3.1 DESTRUCTIVE FORCES -- 7.3.2 CONSTRUCTIVE FORCES -- 7.4 DEVELOPMENT OF EQUILIBRIUM BEACH PROFILE THEORIES -- 7.4.1 UNIFORM WAVE ENERGY DISSIPATION PER UNIT VOLUME -- 7.4.2 UNIFORM WAVE ENERGY DISSIPATION PER UNIT AREA -- 7.4.3 UNIFORM BOTTOM SHEAR STRESS -- 7.4.4 A SEDIMENTTRANSPORT ARGUMENT -- 7.4.5 VERIFICATION OF THE Ay PROFILE -- 7.4.6 INDEPENDENT FIELD EVALUATION OF EQUILIBRIUM BEACH PROFILES -- 7.4.7 A REEXAMINATION OF THE DESTRUCTIVE FORCES -- 7.4.8 LARSON'S MODEL -- 7.4.8.1 Other Profile Shapes -- 7.4.9 NONUNIFORM SAND SIZES -- 7.4.9.1 Comparisons to Field Profiles -- 7.4.10 EQUILIBRIUM PROFILE, INCLUDING THE EFFECT OF WAVE SETUP -- 7.5 APPLICATIONS OF THE EQUILIBRIUM PROFILE -- 7.5.1 SEA LEVEL RISE -- 7.5.1.1 The Bruun Rule -- 7.5.1.2 Barrier Islands -- 7.5.1.3 The Edelman Method -- 7.5.2 STORM RESPONSE OF THE EQUILIBRIUM PROFILE -- 7.5.3 EQUILIBRIUM PROFILES ON PLANAR BEACHES -- 7.5.4 EQUILIBRIUM PROFILES IN FRONT OF VERTICAL BARRIERS -- 7.5.5 RECESSION OF A NATURAL PROFILE DUE TO STORM SURGES AND WAVES -- 7.5.6 COMPARISON WITH EMPIRICAL ORTHOGONAL FUNCTIONS -- REFERENCES -- EXERCISES -- CHAPTER EIGHT Sediment Transport -- 8.1 INTRODUCTION -- 8.2 INCIPIENT SAND MOTION AND DEPTH OF CLOSURE -- 8.2.1 STEADY FLOW -- 8.2.2 UNSTEADY FLOW -- 8.2.3 DEPTH OF CLOSURE -- 8.3 LONGSHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT -- 8.3.1 ENERGY FLUX MODEL -- 8.3.2 ENERGETICS MODEL -- 8.3.3 SUSPENDED TRANSPORT MODEL.

8.3.4 LABORATORY AND FIELD STUDIES OF K -- 8.3.5 TRACTION MODELS -- 8.3.6 OTHER TRANSPORT RELATIONSHIPS AND COMPARISON WITH FIELD DATA -- 8.3.7 DISTRIBUTION OF THE LONGSHORE TRANSPORT ACROSS THE SURF ZONE -- 8.4 CROSS-SHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT -- 8.4.1 FALL TIME MODEL -- 8.4.2 SIMPLE CROSS-SHORE TRANSPORT MODEL -- 8.4.3 A TRACTION MODEL FOR CROSS-SHORE TRANSPORT -- 8.4.4 ENERGETICS MODELS -- 8.4.5 RIPPLE MODELS -- 8.5 LITTORAL DRIFT APPLICATIONS -- 8.5.1 LITTORAL DRIFT COMPUTATIONS BASED ON DEEP WATER DATA -- 8.5.1.1 Littoral Drift Variability -- 8.5.2 LITTORAL DRIFT ROSE -- 8.5.2.1 Change in Shoreline Orientation at a Source or Sink -- 8.5.2.2 Null Point and Equilibrium Planforms -- 8.5.2.3 Stable and Unstable Shorelines -- 8.6 OVERWASH AND WASHOVER -- 8.7 AEOLIAN SEDIMENT TRANSPORT -- 8.7.1 WIND CHARACTERISTICS -- 8.7.2 CRITICAL SHEAR VELOCITY,… -- 8.7.3 TRANSPORT RELATIONSHIPS -- 8.8 ILLUSTRATIONS OF SAND TRANSPORT AND DUNE ACCUMULATION -- 8.9 COHESIVE SEDIMENTS -- 8.9.1 CRITICAL SHEAR STRESSES -- 8.9.1.1 Laboratory Measurements -- 8.9.1.2 Field Measurements -- 8.9.1.3 Calculation Procedures -- 8.9.2 RATE OF EROSION -- REFERENCES -- EXERCISES -- CHAPTER NINE Miscellaneous Coastal Features -- 9.1 INTRODUCTION -- 9.2 NEARSHORE MORPHOLOGY -- 9.3 CRENULATE BAYS -- 9.3.1 FORMATION -- 9.3.2 DESIGN IN CRENULATE BAYS -- 9.4 SAND WAVES -- 9.5 MULTIPLE OFFSHORE SANDBARS -- 9.5.1 VARIABLE WAVE CLIMATE MODEL -- 9.5.2 PARTIAL STANDING WAVE MODEL -- 9.5.3 EDGE WAVE MODEL -- 9.5.4 MULTIPLE BREAKPOINT MODEL -- 9.5.5 OVERTAKE MODEL -- 9.6 BEACH CUSPS -- 9.6.1 POSSIBLE MECHANISMS -- 9.6.1.1 Edge Waves -- 9.6.3 SYNCHRONOUS WAVES -- 9.6.4 SELF-ORGANIZATION -- 9.6.5 SWASH MECHANISM FOR BEACH CUSP INITIATION AND MAINTENANCE -- 9.6.5.1 Field Experiments of Longuet-Higgins and Parkin -- 9.6.5.2 Field Measurements of Dean and Maurmeyer.

9.6.5.3 Field Measurements of Smith and Bodie -- 9.6.5.4 Field Measurements by Holland and Holman -- 9.6.5.5 Field Measurements of Takeda and Sunamura -- 9.6.5.6 Field Measurements of Masselink and Pattiaratchi -- 9.6.5.7 Field Observations by Holland -- 9.7 SUMMARY -- REFERENCES -- EXERCISES -- CHAPTER TEN Modeling of Beaches and Shorelines -- 10.1 INTRODUCTION -- 10.2 PHYSICAL MODELING OF COASTAL PROCESSES -- 10.2.1 WAVE BASINS AND WAVE TANKS -- 10.2.2 FIXED-BED MODELS -- 10.2.3 MOVABLE BED MODELS -- 10.2.3.1 Beach Profile Models -- 10.2.3.2 Planform Physical Modeling -- 10.3 ANALYTICAL MODELING -- 10.3.1 AN ANALYTICAL TIME-VARYING PROFILE MODEL -- 10.3.2 A ONE-LINE PLANFORM MODEL -- 10.3.2.1 Steady Solution -- 10.3.2.2 Periodic Beach -- 10.3.2.3 Sand Waves -- 10.3.2.4 Point Application of Fill -- 10.3.2.5 Rectangular Beach Fill -- 10.3.2.6 Littoral Barriers -- 10.3.2.7 River Deltas -- 10.3.3 THREE-DIMENSIONAL MODELING -- 10.4 NUMERICAL MODELING -- 10.4.1 PROFILE MODELING -- 10.4.2 PLANFORM MODELING -- 10.4.2.1 One-Line Model Based on Primitive Equations -- 10.4.2.2 N-Line Contour Model -- 10.4.2.3 Coastal Models -- REFERENCES -- EXERCISES -- PART FOUR SHORELINE MODIFICATION AND ANALYSIS -- CHAPTER ELEVEN Beach Fill and Soft Engineering Structures -- 11.1 INTRODUCTION -- 11.2 BEACH NOURISHMENT (BEACH FILL) -- 11.2.1 MECHANICS OF BEACH FILL CONSTRUCTION -- 11.2.2 PLACEMENT OF THE FILL -- 11.2.3 COMPATIBILITY OF THE BORROW MATERIAL -- 11.2.3.1 Profile Types -- 11.2.4 VOLUME CALCULATIONS -- 11.2.4.1 Beach Fill Volume at a Seawalled Beach -- 11.2.5 BEACH PLANFORM RESPONSE -- 11.2.5.1 Longevity of Beach Fills -- 11.2.5.2 The Sea Level Rise Effect on Beach Fills -- 11.2.5.3 Effects of Combined Spreading and Background Erosion -- 11.2.5.4 Effects of Setting Back the Fill Boundaries -- 11.2.5.5 Effects of Tapered Ends on Beach Fill.

11.2.5.6 Multiple Nourishments.